Turn-off signs to Nundle appear at a number locations along the New England Highway south of Tamworth. While we had noticed the signs on numerous trips between Sydney and Uralla it was not until early this year that we visited Nundle. Located east of the highway and about 56 kilometers south of Tamworth the village of Nundle requires a detour to visit, so we decided to spend a night there to allow enough time to explore the village and surrounding landscape. The visit turned out to be a very enjoyable one that gave a delightful sense of discovery.
Nundle was established at the foot of the Great Dividing Range when gold was discovered at "The Hanging Rock" and nearby Swamp Creek in 1852. Prospectors from California, Europe and China were attracted to the diggings. While gold mining is no longer a significant aspect of the local economy the agricultural base of the area is apparent in the surrounding landscape. Sheep and cattle grazing on the undulating topography and cultivation along the river flats attest to a rich agricultural landscape. The historic significance of sheep is evident at the Nundle Woollen Mill which continues to operate as one of Australia's last working woolen mills, attracting about 30,000 visitors a year.
Within the village itself the significance of tourism is apparent by the number of visitors walking the streets and visiting various attractions that include shops, the Nundle Woollen Mill, old Court House, The Peel Inn Hotel and the 1882 Primitive Methodist Church. These buildings are the few remaining examples of 19th century architecture that create a strong heritage character and sense of history for the town. The Odgers and McClelland store and adjoining antique store provide a glimpse back to the history of the town and surrounding region.
One of the most enjoyable aspects of visiting Nundle, which is typical of many small country towns in the region, was the pleasant experience of driving into the village in which the rural landscape transitions into single story residences and then shops in the town center. This experience is in stark contrast to entering many large regional towns that involves driving along a corridor defined by fast food outlets, commercial centers, car sales and light industry that feature visually dominant advertising signs, resulting in a unpleasant visual experience.
As I walked up the prominent hill located on the eastern side of the village at sunrise the scenic landscape setting of the village became apparent. The early morning light articulated the sculptural character of the undulating landform by creating contrasting areas of shadow and sun lit slopes. Upon reaching the hilltop the morning backlight on a stand of thistles highlighted their form and natural beauty.
After walking down from the hill past the historic Goldmine Guest House I was pleasantly surprised to find a contemporary coffee and donuts kiosk open at 6:30am and located alongside the main intersection of the town. The stylishly converted shipping container provided a great example of enterprise in a small village located well away from the main highway.
A visit to the Nundle Woollen Mill after breakfast provided a rare opportunity to see the wool processing machinery and products. The beautifully engineered components and complex mechanism of the machinery was a reminder of the creativity of the machine designers and manufacturers. It also caused me to reflect on the skill and hard work of those people who have operated these machines for many decades. The vibrant colours of the woollen products on display make them very enticing and I could not leave without buying another sweater.
The Peel Inn Hotel located on the opposite corner to the coffee and donuts kiosk, is a landmark heritage building. It was apparent to us that the Hotel is both a community hub for locals and a major attraction for visitors to the village. We were lucky to get a table for dinner.
The next morning Before leaving Nundle we drove up the winding road to Hanging Rock Lookout where the spectacular views put the village in context of the regional landscape. Located on the Great Dividing Range the Lookout provides panoramic views to the west towards the village of Nundle, which is partly hidden by the hill located on the eastern edge. The views extend to the west across the wide valley defined by a row of hills in the distance. Views to the south and north include the forest covered slopes and ridgelines that form the scenic backdrop to many of the views from within Nundle village and surrounding areas.